FAQs & Troubleshooting

We do not recommend it. The adhesive is stronger than the paint's bond to the wall, which may cause the paint to peel. For painted walls, the Drill-Based method is much safer.

Extreme Caution. If drilling, you must use a thermal imager or consult blueprints to locate pipes. In these areas, the Adhesive-Based (No-Drill) method is the only safe option.

Wall panels are often hollow and thin. You must ensure the screws penetrate the panel and reach the solid wall or stud (keel) behind it for structural support.

Yes, but ensure the surface is dry during setup. For high-humidity areas, we recommend checking the stability every 6 months or opting for Drilling for permanent peace of mind.

The adhesive requires 72 hours to reach maximum strength. Do not test the strength by pulling the unit or hanging items prematurely.

The product itself is reusable, but the adhesive is for one-time use. To reinstall, scrape off the old residue and apply fresh high-strength nail-free glue.

Use a hair dryer to heat the area for 3–5 minutes to soften the bond, then gently pry the unit off with a flat tool.

Most residue can be removed by rubbing with an eraser or using a cloth with a small amount of cooking oil or sticker remover.

Insert a few toothpicks or a "wall plug repair strip" into the hole alongside the anchor for a tighter fit. If significantly oversized, fill with quick-dry cement and re-drill.

Use a Glass/Tile Drill Bit and spray water to cool it. Only switch to a masonry bit after you have fully penetrated the tile layer.

Switch to a HSS (High-Speed Steel) Metal Bit to drill through the stud, then continue with the installation.

Use a soft, lint-free cloth dampened with water or a mild pH-neutral cleaner. Avoid bleach or harsh chemical solvents.

If your wall is uneven, you can use a tiny amount of color-matched silicone sealant to fill the edge for aesthetic purposes.